Luskentyre beach on Isle of Harris
Day 8. Sunday, May 15, 2022: After a fantastic night’s rest in the utter silence at Greshornish House, the group splits into two. Half head into Portree to have a wander around, and the rest head to the Quiraing Pinnacles for a hike. We have a ferry to catch, so we don’t have time to hike the full circuit, but the part we do see is magnificent. There are some tricky bits here, including a wet, slippery crossing and some scree, but it’s worth it. After our hike, we enjoy some cold beverages furnished by our thoughtful driver Phil, and then head to Uig to catch the ferry to Tarbert on the Isle of Harris.
The ferry is massive and very cool. The vehicles get loaded into the belly, and then we enjoy the observation deck up top. There are restaurants, shops and a special spot for those traveling with pets. We cross the Little Minch, a journey of about 25 miles. The ferry is smooth, though the observation deck is continuously serenaded with car alarms.
We are now in the Outer Hebrides, where Scottish Gaelic is the first language for many residents. Street signs are in Gaelic first, with English second or not at all. We have little trouble with accents up to this point, but begin to have difficulty with understanding some older Hebridean residents we meet.
The Minch side of the island is wild and rocky. We drive south, catching stunning views of a miles-long bay beach at low tide. It’s like something out of a painting, with turquoise and blue and purple and intricate patterns created by the water. We finally arrive at Luskentyre beach. We walk past huge sea grass-covered dunes to find a stunningly beautiful beach. So, so clean. Sand is a mix of white, tan and grey, and plentiful purple sea shells. We find sea stars! The water is bracingly cold, but worth dipping your toes in.
After a too-short time at the beach, we head to our hotels back in the small town of Tarbert. We get to try the local Isle of Harris gin for the first time, and it does not disappoint! We are somewhat surprised to find out the restaurant (and others we visit on the island) is out of many dishes. In a place where food comes in by ferry, when you’re out of something, you’re really out!
